CS 33
The CS 33 was designed by Ray Wall while he was working as the CS Yachts in-house designer and was modelled after the CS 36. Canadian Sailcraft owner Paul Tennyson was looking for a boat that would be more affordable and would fill the gap between the popular CS 27 and the CS 36. With the lines essentially drawn, the task was fairly easy, and CS Yachts started to pump out CS 33s at a tremendous rate, producing almost 450 boats before the molds were destroyed in 1987.
- Keel Studs - Retorquing and Checking - article from Popular Sailing, Feb. 1, 2005
From CSOA CS 33 discussion group...
1982 CS33 Keel bolts nuts - FYI
Mon Apr 18, 2016 6:17 am (PDT) . Posted by:"Val Vechnyak" vechnyak
This past weekend I re-torqued the nuts on the keelbolts. Wanted to let
people know what I learned. I followed this article as a guide
http://www.popularsailing.com/1001/keel-studs-retorquing-and-checking/
1) The nuts on my boat are 1-5/16. I didnt have the 1-1/8. Maybe its the
very first nut which I could not get to because of all the grounding wired
that are attached to it.
2) To get to the nuts that are under the mast I removed the mast "seat"
plate. The mast is off right now so it was just a matter of removing the 8
slotted screws. The screws were *not *easy to remove. They are glued in
with what seemed like a 5200. I had to get a very special 5/8 slotted
screwdriver tip (socket style tip) which I attached to an electric impact
wrench.
3) I backed out all the nuts half a turn before torquing them again. I got
an extra 1/4 turn on all of them.
Hope this helps
Val Vechnyak
1982 CS33 Keel bolts nuts - FYI
Mon Apr 18, 2016 6:17 am (PDT) . Posted by:"Val Vechnyak" vechnyak
This past weekend I re-torqued the nuts on the keelbolts. Wanted to let
people know what I learned. I followed this article as a guide
http://www.popularsailing.com/1001/keel-studs-retorquing-and-checking/
1) The nuts on my boat are 1-5/16. I didnt have the 1-1/8. Maybe its the
very first nut which I could not get to because of all the grounding wired
that are attached to it.
2) To get to the nuts that are under the mast I removed the mast "seat"
plate. The mast is off right now so it was just a matter of removing the 8
slotted screws. The screws were *not *easy to remove. They are glued in
with what seemed like a 5200. I had to get a very special 5/8 slotted
screwdriver tip (socket style tip) which I attached to an electric impact
wrench.
3) I backed out all the nuts half a turn before torquing them again. I got
an extra 1/4 turn on all of them.
Hope this helps
Val Vechnyak
